Johnny's Mobile Bicycle Repair

2016 Update: We just got our service vehicle for mobile repairs!

Check out my new website at www.johnnysbikes.com

Readers of my blog already know that I'm an experienced bike mechanic. For the past 6 years, I have been in and around bike shops building bicycles and doing everything from changing flat tires to advanced services like hydraulic disc brake bleeds. The truth is, I live, breathe even bleed bikes. Is that all I'm good at? Readers who follow my blog know the answer to that also. Although I have done photography as a business and have an affinity for drawing, repairing bicycles is the thing that I currently enjoy the most, the thing that I can focus my attention on. I have always been a hands-on kind of guy. I have had office jobs that I have hated and know myself well enough to say I rather work standing up and moving around than sitting down, fixated on a computer screen. That is where the idea of Johnny's Mobile Bike Repair came up.

I actually started brainstorming on this idea almost six months ago, debating the feasibility of working for myself as a home based but traveling bicycle mechanic. I realized that I already possessed most of the tools and the knowledge needed to put the idea into practice. I started advertising a couple of weeks ago and now I'm starting to gain a following on Facebook and from business referrals.

Back in Business! Mobile bike mechanic Servicing the north DFW area and Collin County

The concept is actually pretty simple, one most established bike shops wouldn't even dream of considering. What if the customer didn't have to go to the bike shop? What if the mechanic came to them, picked up their bicycle, fixed it and delivered it back to them within a reasonable amount of time? This is how Johnny's Mobile Bicycle Repair works. In addition, I do concessions for customers with large cargo bicycles to have them repaired on site. In other words, I will at times bring my tools and perform repairs at the customer's home, based on how I see fit. Because it is impossible to haul a garage full of tools everywhere I go, I can only do on site repairs on an as needed basis.  

My shop bench with the tools of the trade.

I have plenty of rack storage to handle a decent sized workload.

So far the reception has been positive and I have had a steady stream of work trickling in. Hopefully this business will grow as more people in the DFW area find out about me. Here are some of the services that I am currently offering.

-Tune ups starting at $50

-Brake bleed services

-Bicycle Restorations

-Parts replacement and install

-Bike builds and tear downs for travelers

-Frame powdercoating

-Rust removal*

-..and much more

I am a full service bicycle shop based in my garage. There is little that I can not do and no part that I can't order. Not having a commercial overhead or a retail business is what allows me to offer my services at competitive prices with a fast turnaround. I encourage all customers to have their parts purchased if they want to replace anything on the bicycle before making an appointment. I stock a variety of basic parts but do not stock bicycle components. I can order anything but that will delay the repair by one to two weeks. 

I have the ability to fix all kinds of bicycles, however my target audience is the adult bicycle market. The parts that I stock are mostly for road bikes and mountain bikes. I can fix cruisers, BMX bikes, recumbents and tandems, however I will have to order parts in to work on those bicycles. I say this to be as transparent as possible to anyone wishing to use my services. 

Find me on Facebook, email me or call me if...

-you love cycling and riding your bike

-you are tired of the turnaround times at your local bike shop

-you resent the overinflated prices being charged to you

-your club needs a wrench and the established shops are ignoring you

-you are an avid mountain biker

-you commute by bike
-you do triathlons

-you are a roadie, fixed geared hipster, old guy on a recumbent, vintage retro-grouch, all of the above, call me if you love to ride whatever bike it may be

If you are this kind of customer, I can definitely help you out. My goal is to grow my business within the dedicated community of cyclists, and give cyclists freedom of choice rather than forcing them to take their bicycles to a bike shop every time they need something fixed on it. No matter what the make and model is on your bicycle, I will not turn down anybody who loves cycling.


 There is a minimum onsite service fee of $50 that I charge every time I go out. This means that the customer must purchase $50 or more worth of services. If the customer purchases a tune-up and that is all they need, the service fee will also cover the cost of the tune-up. Additional gas fees may apply if living outside Collin County.  The turnaround for ordering parts and fixing a bicycle is about two weeks. If parts are not needed, it takes me approximately two hours to perform any extensive repair, about 30 minutes to an hour to perform a basic tune.

*I remove rust on chrome plated parts and components only.

Check out my Facebook page for more information at www.facebook.com/bicycledoctor

Stay tuned for more informative posts from A Bicycle's Point of View.

April Update: New Videos and Cycling Tips

Nutrition tips, cycling tips and how to set goals for cycling.

With my busy schedule, I have not had the opportunity to sit down and compose a thought on this blog page until today, so I apologize to my readers for leaving you hanging. With the Collin Classic coming up in June as well as Hotter N' Hell in August, I have been using the little time I have to exercise and do some actual riding. However, I have posted some new videos on my YouTube channel for my subscribers to enjoy. The following videos go into some depth regarding nutritional advice, tips for more efficient climbing and my views on Crits and Bicycle Rallies. Check out my channel and subscribe for more videos to come.

This year so far has gotten off to a great start. I know what I have to do to get in shape for the events that I am going to be riding this year. Some of the gains from last year's 18 pound weight loss have carried over to this year and I am starting the season about 7 to 8 pounds lighter than I did last year. It won't take long to achieve and exceed the form I had last year if all goes according to plan. I have a new goal for 2015; setting a sub 6 hour time for a hundred mile cycling event. More specifically, finishing the Hotter N' Hell in less than 6 hours and maybe even going for a 5 hour time limit. This will require training hard and some new equipment with the latest technology to get me there. "La Poderosa", or my beloved Woodrup steel bike featured in the video above, has officially retired from racing and will be relegated to the Sunday morning group bike ride. It served me well in last year's event, but the marginal losses in shifting with downtube shifters and lack of proper cadence because of cranking big gears took their toll and contributed to the time deficit I had. I was also wearing about 15 pounds of gear on my Camelback and stopped at one too many rest stops while I waited for others who were riding with me. All that resulted in a finishing time of 7:45, still not a bad time, all things considered. This year I'll be signing up not as a first-time newbie tourist, but rather as a seasoned veteran rider that will be "in it to win it" figuratively speaking. My goal is to ride well at these events but also get the attention of some of the local teams in the area. I want to be able to keep up with the best riders around the area where I live and maybe that will open up an opportunity to do something else with this passion that I enjoy. 

Right now I have Motobecane Super Strada on order from Bikes Direct that I will be doing a future review on. It departs from the vintage steel bikes that I love to ride but comes fully loaded with the latest tech such as an external bottom bracket and a Shimano Ultegra 22 speed groupset. The Frame is still made out of an alloy, however it's an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork. At 19.5 pounds, it will be about 4 to 5 pounds lighter than the Woodrup when it's all said and done. Spec for spec it can be compared to a Cannondale Caad 8 in performance, but with a nicer groupset. This year my goal is light, fast and efficient, and this bike seems to have all three. It's not a flashy bike but it will soon be the workhorse of my stable.

Another goal that I have is to keep up with one of my childhood friends who will soon be visiting me. He was a beast on the bike when I was 15 and today he is a semi-pro level mountain biker. I'm trying to fit at least one mountain bike ride a week to be prepared to ride with him by the time he visits me. Last year I was all about road cycling for most of the year, this year I will be mixing it up on both the trail and on the road. 

Setting goals every year is important for anyone wishing to maintain a physically active lifestyle. As an adult with a family in tow, I know firsthand how easy it can be to be lured into the complacent mindset of "I'm too old" or "too busy" to be doing this. We may have friends who were once physically active and have allowed themselves to drift into that way of thinking. Setting goals allows us to keep our head above the water in this sense. It allows us to get rid of distractions or excess baggage in our lives or at least know how to deal with the baggage better. It promotes a positive mindset because we always have something to look forward to as we strive to stay busy. It keeps kids (and adults) out of trouble and keeps their minds out of the gutter. It keeps us disciplined from eating in a way that will mess up our progress. Some people keep a journal of their goals. I used to be one of those people and that is a great practice to have. Setting goals down on paper (or in this case, my blog) commits the mind into action and is a great way to see how far we've come along after a certain period of time.

To those who have a hard time committing to their health goals, all I have to say is "don't be that guy (or gal)". At the end of the day, no one likes a victim and no one wants to hear sob stories about someone who would of but could not get in shape. Some people have all the emotional support, coaching and equipment or accessibility to it to get themselves in shape, however they lack the desire. Desire is not something you can buy on a carbon fiber bling bike. It is not something that someone else can have for you. Desire comes from within. It is a powerful force that drives people to change and to overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles. It's willing to put in the hard work and the self discipline knowing that their is no easy path to success. It's watching the pounds slowly inch away on the scale instead of becoming bulimic and expecting an overnight miracle. 

Just remember, if we push hard enough, something is likely to stick. We may lose progress in our fitness from year to year, but eventually good habits will catch up to us as long as we stay consistent. Some people have to go at it alone, because neither their peers nor family members care much for what they are doing. That's okay, the key is to be a positive influence on others, even if that means being left out or skipping the dinner plans for that evening. That might seem inhospitable or unsocial at first glance, but they will eventually get the point as to why you are doing it. Once others see our gains they will want to follow. We must also realize that all people are skeptical by nature and reluctant to embrace new ideas. When people see our results, they will want in on our little secret and they too will follow us eventually. Sometimes WE have to create a following, lead by example and grow the interest in both cycling and healthy living in our area or surroundings. I definitely speak from experience on this matter, so feel free to quote me as the source. 

That's all the updates I have for now, stay tuned and subscribe to my blog and YouTube channel for more informative posts from A Bicycle's Point Of View.

How to Straighten A Bicycle Wheel: Youtube tutorial

How I restored the Peugeot

My Peugeot UO-8 Restoration

I wrote an article about this bicycle last year but never got into any detail as to how I restored it. The restoration process was extensive so I didn't go into the details of how I got this bicycle to look the way it did. 

When I received this bike, the chrome parts had grit and a lot of surface rust. The shifters were broken and the derailleur no longer worked properly. The bearings in the crank arms were seized and the brake levers were toast. Nothing really moved on the bike except for the wheels, which spun smoothly. The frame, although scratched up and with a little surface rust, was solid and had no visible dents. 

The cottered cranks on this bike were the most difficult part of this restoration. The Nervar cranks were solidly installed and it seemed that nothing could take them out. I had to drill out the cotter pins in order to remove the crank arms and went through a few drill bits trying to loosen the metal pins. I could not get the drive side bottom bracket cup out so I had to send the frame for powder coating with it attached.  Here's a few pictures of the bicycle stripped down to the frame.

While the frame was getting powder coated, I went to work on removing the rust from the components using an oxalic acid bath. In hindsight, throwing the parts in Simple Green solution, which is safer for the environment, easier to dispose of and is not a health hazard like oxalic acid, would have been a better idea. At the same I had yet to experiment with Simple Green so I did what I knew could work. When the frame came back from powder coating, I proceeded to put the parts back on.

The cottered cranks gave me a hard time once again when I had to reinstall them on the bike. I had to order French cotter pins on ebay which cost about nine dollars and take the bike to a bike shop that had a cotter press lying around. At first one of the guys in the shop did not know what a cotter press was, a tool which is now obsolete. However, cottered cranks are still used on new bikes in third world countries like India. An older guy who worked there dug up the old tool from the back of the shop and called me in, allowing me to get behind  the counter to install the cranks. I had already established a good relationship with the guys at the bike shop, so it was no problem when a regular customer like me needed a favor. 

I also ordered some new old stock Shimano 600  brake levers to replace the broken Mafacs. Before putting the rest of the parts on the bike I called a guy who specializes in pin striping to repaint gold leaf paint on the lugs. I had met him at a swap meet a while back and saw that he did really good work. For about 25 bucks it added that extra detail that really made this bicycle pop. Afterwords I installed the rest of the parts. Here's a picture of the bike at this point of the restoration.

I then purchased some period correct decals for the frame from an australian guy off ebay and they took about a month to arrive. It was well worth the wait to make this bike complete. I first cleaned off the areas where the decals were going to be placed. Then I used a squeegee for applying vinyl like the ones used in sign shops. Here's a couple of pictures of the process.

Overall this bike is awesome. It is comfortable for riding around the countryside and pulling the child stroller behind. This isn't a race bike, however don't let that mistake you about it's speed. I have passed guys on time trial bikes in their drops who thought they were fast on this bicycle. The spring loaded saddle wasn't the best quality and has since been replaced with a vinyl leather imitation saddle. I plan to put money aside to get this bicycle a proper Brooks Flyer someday soon, as the geometry of the bike demands a suspended saddle in order to be comfortable. Hopefully this bike is around for another 30 to 40 years. I feel like the structure of the bike was well made and all it needed was some love and attention to give it's second lease on life. Stay tuned for more bicycle restoration articles and subscribe to my posts for more informative posts.

Winter Projects

The 2013 Lineup of Vintage Bicycle Restorations

Winter Projects to keep me busy this winter and into next year

As a self tribute to my bicycle restoration career, I have purchased the next four bicycles I plan to restore and permanently own in my stable. Each bicycle will be a labor of love and will take considerable amount of time to restore to their former glory. When they are finished they will be showroom worthy and some will be very valuable. Here's the lineup of bicycles I have set aside to work on this winter.

The first bicycle I have in mind to restore is this 1970's Peugeot UO8 touring bike. I comes equipped with Mafac "Racer" brakes, cottered cranks and a rear rack, which I may or may not replace. This will be my first project tackling french dimensions on a bike. I have found replacement decals on eBay for this bike, so I definitely plan to get it powder coated in a forest green or cream finish. The decals they sell are adhesive vinyl and can stick to the powder coat finish. I plan to remove all the rust and high polish all the chrome pieces. Once finished this bicycle will be the envy of all retro-grouches that gaze upon it. It will look like it was pulled out of a 1950's french post card. 

 Next on my to do list of bicycle restorations is this Raleigh Tourist DL-1 roadster bicycle, made circa 1976. This bicycle will realistically take me at least six months to buy and replace all the parts for. I got it at a bike swap for $50 dollars along with some other random parts and accessories. For anyone who knows anything about these bicycles this is an extremely rare find in the U.S. This bike features a 3 speed Sturmey Archer internal rear hub and rod lever brakes. It also comes with westwood style rims, although in this case I purchased this bicycle with the original front rim having been replaced. I plan to cut no corners on the restoration process, as correctly restored bicycles like this one can obtain a value of over $1,000 if sold to the right buyer. Although like I said, I don't have any plans to sell it. If anyone has one like this and has restored one already, please drop me a line in the comments section with tips and where I can find parts for one.

Anyone recognize the bicycle above? This is a 1979 Schwinn Le Tour, the same exact model and size I restored and powder coated yellow. This is the same bicycle that is featured in the heading on my blog. It's also in almost the exact same condition as the last Schwinn Le Tour that I restored. Surface rust has seized the bicycle on the outside. I am not too concerned though, as I have tackled projects in much worse shape. I love the way these steel frames ride. Once fixed up and dialed in these bicycles can keep of with a pack of Sunday bicyclists on much newer bicycles. They also make comfortable touring and randonneuring machines, as readers of my blog already know.

Last but not least is this circa 1982-1983 Peugeot PH10s road bike. This bike comes in pretty light at 25lbs and can probably be set up to run a 7 or 8 speed freewheel or cassette. Which begs to question whether I should do a full modern upgrade on this bike, brifters and all. I am definitely contemplating a metallic powder coat finish on this bike. I could also do a period correct restoration and see if I'll be able to reuse the simplex derailleurs, which are plastic, and the wheels, which are missing spokes. The all chrome fork has a big gash on it, possibly from being leaned against something or some heavy piece of industrial equipment falling on it. This bike will be sitting in my garage until I can figure which will be the most appropriate way to restore it. I will say this, however, that once restored this bicycle will be fast. 

All of these bicycles are tailored to my size, and I feel very fortunate to have run across them. Funding for these projects is pretty low right now, so this undertaking may be on hiatus for a little while. But stay tuned for a lot of how to articles, with new information that other sources may not have. 

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The simple life- As it pertains to cycling

Living simple in the wake of corporate downsizing, and

how this relates to cycling

In the past week, the greedy, inhumane actions of some major corporations have left tens of thousands of people without work. In my area alone, one major technologies employer laid off 200 of it's employees, among them even some of my friends. Many are once again hitting the job trail trying to figure out if they can afford their current lifestyle or if they will have to lose it all and start over.

There are many theories as to why so many companies have been laying off, cutting full time hours and benefits from their employees. Fear over the introduction of a national health care bill, a "fiscal cliff" which is probably bad news for rich guys getting tax breaks, and even college educated Puerto Ricans (like me) that are starting to catch on about taxation without representation, and finally wanting to do something about it in their commonwealth are all current events some say have encouraged corporate downsizing.

Whatever the reasons for the job losses, these actions are wrong and whatever goes around comes around. I hope any pompous jerk who's laid off a bunch of people and is reading this takes that into heart. In the end, we need companies that can invest in their workers and in the economy of this country. So if you're going to high  tail it to Asia for the cheap labor then don't bother coming back. Take your goods over there as well and figure out how to sell them. Companies that keep making their employees suffer aren't getting away with much this time. People are used to being unemployed or underemployed, so they'll deal with it. In return these companies are basically falling on their own swords so to speak.

"Keep it simple" has been my mantra since 2008, when the economic crisis hit and I was fired two days after returning from my honeymoon. I had to learn how to hustle and teach myself to not have such lofty standards when it came to work. In the time it's taken me to get back on my feet I have worked as  a photographer, bicycle mechanic, sign installer, and even built furniture on call of an office once. I have also worked in  the medical field for two years reading and interpreting electrocardiograms. All this in only four years. I just did what I had to do. Let me tell you it's been a blast and an adventure at the same time.

Many young couples and young people who live on their own acquire debt. This can come in the form of student loans, car payments, or expensive housing. When I was in my early 20's, the loft lifestyle became popular. My roommate and I bought a futon, and we would spend a lot of time browsing the IKEA catalog for more contemporary furniture to dress our apartment with.

Still, our rent was low and we could afford it. I have personally witnessed many young people who find a nice paying job, move to the fancy, "arts district" side of town, ornate their lofts in IKEA furniture and buy a brand new car without even having worked at the job for a year. They do all this only to get the pink slip later. Then they are pulling hairs out trying to figure out what to do. 

Again, I say keep it simple. Buy a car in cash or buy it used, if it's even necessary to own a car. If you live two miles from your grocery store, your gym, your church, a bike lane- do you even need a car? I don't think so. Ride a bicycle instead. That will save  you potentially $800 a month in travel related expenses. Riding a bike is not for poor people. Its for smart people that keep it simple.  There is also the added side benefit of getting in shape and getting to avoid all those doctors visits later. More money in your pocket my friends.

A savings account is the best credit line you can have. If you deposit $50 a week into a savings account, you will have enough to fly to Germany in six months. Trust me, I have done it myself. Ever have a low balance on your account? Just transfer some money from your savings. No need to ask anyone for a bailout. There are some people who just aren't able to save anything. That's understandable, but for if times get better a savings account is the way to go.

Without complicating this issue of deep thought too much, I hope this article serves as a encouragement for those who have recently lost their jobs. To those of you who have lost your job I would like to say this; grow your local economy. I have yet to see a grocer in my residential area. If someone started a small chain of grocery stores that targeted residential neighborhoods, they would hit the jack pot. Zoning laws are outdated and are designed around suburban sprawl, time to do away with those too. Maritime, cabotage trade laws that prohibit exports from U. S territories have to end. For those of you who are unemployed and are visionaries, there is still a lot of options left and a lot of  untapped markets or markets that don't even exist yet. It's up to you to make it happen. Hustle my friends, and don't be afraid to roll up your sleeves and get some dirt underneath your fingernails.

What to do about those pesky headbadges?

Advice for reinstalling riveted headbadges

The picture above says it all. Use crazy glue or the generic equivalent. Riveted headbadges, once removed, can be impossible to find screws or rivets for. That doesn't mean that they are junk by any means. There are very beautiful and valuable headbadges that once reattached to the bike can also add more value to that bicycle. Take for instance that red and silver Peugeot headbadge (top left of picture). That badge is so pretty you can put a wire through it on one side and sell it as an earring. But since I'm not in the jewelery business, I'll just stick that piece of bling back on the bicycle where it belongs.

Removing these headbadges requires the use of tiny drill bits, a slow drill setting, and a steady hand. As you drill the hole out of the rivet, use slightly larger bits until the rivet pops off. If there are any metal shavings left on the frame holes, these can come off with a Flathead screwdriver. Removing the headbadge is easy, the harder part is putting it back on.

The easiest and least headache inducing solution is using crazy glue. This is the one that I recommend, the solution over all others. Simply apply a thin layer of crazy glue on the backside of the headbadge. Line the holes on the headbadge to the holes on the frame, then press down hard and hold the badge in place for a few minutes. Make sure to stick the headbadge on a clean surface, hopefully a frame that has been powder coated. After that, you're done. The badge should stay one the frame for the remainder of it's life (or until you decide to pry it off with a crowbar, whichever one comes first).

There are other ways you can go about reinstalling a riveted headbadge if you are one of those anal-retentive types. Schwinn headbadges use 2mm x 4mm sheet metal screws. Double sided tape is another alternative I have heard even restoration services will use on their headbadges. And if you are one of those "purest" bicycle restorers, you could buy a rivet gun and even some 2mm rivets online. Crazy glue works just as well if not better than the aforementioned alternatives.

So there it is, how to remove and reinstall riveted headbadges. Here is just another tool to add to your arsenal of knowledge. Instead of selling those beauties on eBay or wearing them as earrings, you now can use them for what they were originally intended for. Bicycle emblems. Subscribe and stay tuned for more how to articles and restoration tips. Feel free to leave your questions and I will do my best to answer them.

How To Restore Your Bicycle: Part 3-Re assembly

Now that we got the rust off, it's time to put it back together.

I first want to apologize that I have been behind on my recent activities in regards to this restoration. The frame has arrived back from powder coating, as well as a few parts that I have ordered online. I like to make the best use of my time, so I started putting the bike back together as I wait for the last few pieces that I ordered. 

This cruiser is a little more complicated in that it is geared and comes equipped with a drum brake. Some restorations take longer than others, and because of the wait time in receiving parts this restoration will probably take a little more than a month to complete. 

Here's a few pictures of what the bike looks like as of today. Still a work in progress, but finally starting to take it's true form.

Coming Together: The frame finally arrived from powder coating, so it's time to start re assembly.

Pedal to the metal: The powder coated frame and pedals really brings out the shine.

I replaced the springer fork with this replica

If you happen to be restoring a cruiser similiar to this, keep in mind the following tips which will make putting the bike back together a whole lot easier.

- The non-geared side is reverse threaded. Remove all the hardware from this side of the bike, and simply slide the crank arm out of the bottom bracket through the opposite end. Slide the crank arm in through the geared side when reinstalling it.

- Bottom bracket bearings will always face with the ball ends towards the frame, against the cups of the bottom bracket. Never install these facing outward, this will cause the bearings to break and failure of the bottom bracket assembly.

- Steering tube bearings always face with the ball ends upward. The bottom steering tube bearing will have the ball end against the bottom of the steering tube and the top bearing will have the ball end against the crown of the threaded fork.

These are some tips, so far, that I can include if you're this far into your own restoration. In the coming weeks I will post some final pictures of the finished product and some more tips on putting the bike back together along the way.

How to restore your bicycle- Part 2 Rust Removal, before and after.

How to restore your old bicycle part 2

Rust bath results

I wanted to give an update on the parts restoration process before getting the bicycle frame back from powder coating. In my last article one of my readers brought up a good point. Unless you are trying to remove rust from chromed plated bicycle parts, I would not recommend using oxalic acid on any aluminum or nickel plated parts. The best solution for these kind of parts is to use a  mineral solvent like Simple Green and to continuously scrub the parts in the solution using a steel wool sponge or wire brush. Newer bicycles from at least the last two decades will very seldom have any chrome plated parts on them.

As far as removing rust from chrome plated parts, I have yet to find a more effective solution than oxalic acid. In my last article I posted the before pictures of the parts before being treated in the oxalic acid bath. Here's an update on how these parts look now.

After 48 hours, the water will have a yellowish tint to it, the acid is doing it's job

Parts after the first phase of the oxalic acid bath.

I Jerry-rigged this "ghetto bath" out of a recycling bin that leaked so I had to wrap plastic around it. Will make it better next time

After the first oxalic bath, I made another larger bath out of a recycling bin. I know, I know, Greenpeace would hang me by my toes if they saw this. In my defense it no longer leaks. Being that I am also pro-environment I always take extra precaution when handling chemicals like this, reader rest assured. 

I let the parts from the first bath sit in the second bath for about 10 hours and added more rusty parts into the soup. Here is how the initial parts turned out after being placed in this bath,

The ugly duckling becoming a swan- Before and after oxalic acid bath.

Before and after oxalic acid bath.

Even after a 3 day bath, sometimes the rust may leave small pits where it ate through the chrome finish. Oxalic acid can really bring back chrome polished metal, but it does not work miracles. Here is an example of small pitting that may occur when a metal has been long exposed to rusting. From a distance pitting may not be noticeable. I had to make this picture below with my macro-lens setting.

Pitting may occur when metal has been exposed to rust for a long time.

My next article will feature how this bike starts to come together. Stay tuned as I give more tips on parts installation techniques and final touches on this bike.

Randonneuring- The revival of cyclo-touring part 3: The finished product.

Part 3 of my Randonneuring article and the results of my 10 speed conversion.

Let me start out by showing some "before" pictures of my 10 speed Schwinn before the conversion.

Now the converted Schwinn to Randonneuring bicycle,

The finished product.

25.4mm diameter suspension seatpost with Brooks-style saddle.

Swapped the 5 speed freewheel for a 7 speed mega chainring freewheel. Fitted a Shimano Tourney long cage derailleur to take the largest cog.

Going against conventional wisdom, I installed a set of Shimano Tourney thumb shifters on the top of the drop bars. You will need a longer bolt to fit these shifters than the ones supplied. I took some bolts of a department store bike brake levers to make it work.

Its amazing the weight savings I have had just by replacing the old freewheel, shifters and derailleur from the bike. Having a more accurate shift, taller stem and wider handlebars has improved the maneuverability of the bike. The better gear ratio also allows me to pedal alot faster and smoother. I took it for a test ride today and man was it fun. It's great for adventuring through the backroads, park trails or just riding with the family.

Question remains, will this bike hold up to singletrack? Probably not. It will at least be able to take on some fire roads and gravel or flat dirt roads. The top tube is too long to get proper lift and the bottom bracket too low to the ground for hopping logs and other obstacles. That doesn't mean I am discouraging anyone to try it out for themselves. As for me I have invested too much in the bike already (I am a cheapskate about upgrading bikes than most other enthusiasts) to try riding cross country on this bike.  What I will say is I have rigged up a bike that is quite capable of doing what I designed it for; Randonneuring.

Too many kids today (I mean twenty somethings like myself or younger) have a beef with gears. Many consider gears on a bike to be an accessory only desirable to old people.  The kids who grew up riding single speed BMX bikes transitioned to single speed road bikes or "fixies". While there is nothing wrong with that, having grown up riding mountain bikes my views differ. Its all about the gears. The more gear range on my bike, the better. More gears mean more utility. If I wanted to ride my bike over 'em mountains, I sure can, as long as there is a road going up there somewhere. Not something I would advise on a single speed/fixed gear bike. It is not feasable or practical to ride a bike loaded with about 80 pounds of equipment, say, in a place like the Rockies in Colorado, single speed. Maybe with an internal gear hub in the back but not with a single speed cog or freewheel. That's why I recommend gearing out your old ride instead of stripping it to the frame and the wheels. You'll have alot more fun riding it and you'll be able to ride a wide variety of terrain without having to get off the saddle and walking. I hope this article served it's purpose to inform the reader the potential of their garage sale 10 speeds. Give it a try, let me know how it goes. 

Randonneuring- The revival of cyclo-touring. Part 2-Progress and observations

Part 2 of my Randonneuring bicycle build.

I didn't want to leave any of my diehard followers in suspense about the progress I have made with my ten speed to rando-touring machine build. Here are a few observations that I have made in the process.

I had purchased a 9 speed freewheel to replace the original 5 speed paperweight on the bicycle. I ended up having to go with a 7 speed freewheel with a granny gear mega chainring for the hills. The rear triangle and the axle length of my hub would not take the extra two gears needed for the 9 speed conversion. So for anyone considering buying the Sunrace 9 speed freewheel, this will not work on an old bike like this, even with a larger axle and the rear triangle cold set. Even at the 7 speed level, I had to add a 2mm spacer to the axle to prevent the chain from hitting the frame on the smallest cog. Nine speed freewheels are designed for modern mountain bike frames that accommodate a rear axle of at least 135mm. The same also goes for the riser stem that I originally purchased to replace the short racing stem on the bike. Schwinns from the 70's will not accept a standard 1" quill stem for a threaded headset. The actual size of the stem is .833, or 21.15mm in tube diameter, as opposed to the standard diameter of 22.2mm. Fortunately for me, a local bike shop happened to carry both the stem and the freewheel that I needed for this conversion. 

I had to replace the chrome Shimano 400 rear derailleur with a more modern long-cage derailleur to accomodate the mega range gearing on the bike. I opted with the Shimano Tourney derailleur since it is what is most commonly used on mega range, freewheel setups. To my surprise the derailleur looks quite durable. There are not as many plastic parts as advertised on the reviews, and I believe it can take a beating through the gravel as long as the bicycle does not fall on top of it.  It already came with the claw-style dropout hanger, so there was no need to get a hanger converter for it. It was a quick swap, and the bolt that holds it to the frame was coated in Locktite which gives me confidence about it's sturdiness. 

I also replaced the 25.4mm diameter, crotch killing steel seat post with the same diameter suspension seat post. When working with seat post diameters this small (may I remind the reader that 25.4mm is now the norm for most BMX seat posts) suspension seat posts tend to have their mechanical flaws. One such flaw is lateral looseness on the saddle, or commonly referred to as "the wobble". Some suspension posts wobble and some don't. It is a defect that is so common that I have decided to keep my somewhat wobbly seat post. In a non racing, off roading kind of situation, a slightly wobbly seat will not matter as you ride along a bumpy and unpaved trail. If it does give me any problems in the long run I can just replace it with a non suspended post with an integrated seat clamp and spring loaded saddle. But for the moment I will stick with my current setup.

I have also swapped out my Serfas Secca tires for a pair of good looking Panaracer Paselas. I have yet to test their durability, and I do not know if this is a downgrade from the kevlar lined, puncture resistant Seccas. What I do know is that these tires look fatter and slightly more knobbier than the street slicks I had on previously. The Serfas tires now hang in the corner of my garage as a backup set or for if or when I decide to go fast on this bike again. If punctures become a problem in the future I'll throw some tire liner to give a little added protection to my tubes. Since there are no goat heads or similar thorns in the area of Texas where I live, I don't see punctures as being an issue. I keep a high PSI on my tires and hardly get pinch flats or flats from riding over glass. I ride through country roads often, and I can't remember the last time I had a flat. 

I replaced the Schwinn Sakae Road Champion handlebars for a set of slightly wider Nitto Olympiade handlebars that I had lying around. With the added height of the stem and added width of the handlebars, the bike is taking on a more comfortable and stable geometry. 

I am still waiting on my Shimano Tourney thumb shifters to complete my touring ride and these should be arriving in the mail shortly. I'm sorry I have yet to post pictures of my build progress, but I think I'm going to have to post pictures of the finished product since I am so close to finishing. Stay tuned for article 3 of my Randonneuring ride- the finished product. I will also try to post youtube video of riding footage and how to's for anyone interested. 

Randonneuring- The revival of cyclo-touring

Randonneuring- 

Not Just for the Old guys anymore.

Randonneuring... this word may convey different images in a readers mind. To some it may bring to mind a group of 70 somethings with their gray whitish beards, riding on their steel framed, pannier loaded machines. Many in the younger audience are unfamiliar with this term and it's significance. Many yet don't realize that they don't need a cyclocross bike to be able to ride off the pavement. For those of you who are outside the loop, let me fill you in on what randonneuring is. 

Bicycles have been ridden on the dirt long before the invention of the mountain bike. In fact, since the early part of the 20th century, bicycles were raced mostly on dirt roads throughout Europe, as cars had not yet become as popular as they are today. Many people still rode on horseback and there was not alot of demand for paved roads during this time. The bicycles they rode back then were well designed and held up to a variety of road conditions and abuse. These were the steel road bikes of old, the same bikes many randonneuring bicycles are modeled after today. As racing became popular in countries like Italy and France, touring the countryside became a pastime of people living in the British Isles. Distances became longer and randonneuring was born.

The re-introduction of randonneuring bikes has come with a pretty hefty price tag; Many of these bikes are selling for  a thousand dollars and up just for the frame. Surly, Pashley, Velo Orange and yip san bikes have become popular for introducing some models into the market. Randonneuring events such as gravel grinders are starting to become more popular. These distance events are unsupported, meaning no one to change your tire if you have a flat out on the road. These point A to point B races that go through back country dirt and loose gravel roads. The events are day long races held regardless of the weather or amount of daylight. 

I have been looking for a cyclocross bike for quite some time to get into this re-emerging form of cycling. Not being able to justify owning another bike in my garage. I have decided to convert my 1979 Schwinn Le Tour into a randonneuring machine. I have already ordered some of the key parts to making this change possible- a 9 speed freewheel, Panaracer touring tires, riser stem, fenders and suspension seat post for my Brooks-style saddle. I will convert my existing 10 speed to a randonneuring bike for around a hundred bucks, and I will show the reader step by step how they too can build a randonneuring machine while not sacrificing a whole paycheck to do so. Stay tuned for my documentary on my 10 speed to Rando-touring bike conversion.

Is a Schwinn Le Tour the best bicycle for this conversion? Before I hear from the critics I will be the first to say this isn't the easiest bike for this type of conversion. The reader will find it much more practical to go with a bicycle made from the mid 1980's and up. Much of the manufacturing specs and parts had become universal to every road bicycle by then. Schwinn's have quirky headtube, seatpost and brake hole diameters, but are not impossible to find parts for. Also, in many cases the rear triangle of the frame will require bending in order to fit a standard rear wheel with the larger freewheel (Velo Orange carries 126mm freehub wheelsets for around $280, bending is the more affordable workaround). I am choosing my Schwinn because it is initially cheaper in price, I have already invested in the initial restoration process, and because there were a surplus of these bikes made in the 70's bike boom, many hidden in the corners of people's garages.  My goal is to dispel myths that are associated with conversions like these, as well as myths pertaining to riding a road bike off road. This will be an interesting series of articles. I encourage the reader to subscribe and stay tuned for new developments. According to all the bike forums and information out there no one has done or recommends this type of conversion to date. It's a little disappointing, since there is a whole second hand market of mid 70's Schwinns out there. Most of these old bikes can bike picked up at a garage sale or craigslist for 50 dollars. So instead of buying another new bike, I will show the reader how to build a comparable touring bike at a fraction of the cost.

Shooting with my Mamiya

My Mamiya C33 and the 120 Project

My 1960 Mamiya C33 series Professional Twin Reflex Camera

No matter how much technology advances, there are certain art forms that resist change. Just like photoshop cannot replace an artist's easel, Digital technology does not replace the old film practices in their entirety. One example that has yet to be matched in quality only by the most advanced digital cameras is the medium format camera, in this case, my Mamiya C33 twin reflex camera. This camera uses a 120mm roll of film you insert instead of the 35mm roll on most SLR cameras. The 2"x2" negative packs as much detail as a 40 mega pixel image sensor. Depending on lens quality, you might even get more detail. 

The drawbacks? No built in light meter. All light measurements need to be done by an external hand held meter and dialed into the camera manually. It is also very bulky. Weighing in close to 5 pounds, it can be like swinging a club if swung around in defense of a camera thief. It is also expensive to buy the hard to find rolls of film and a place that will still develop them. From time to time I would sneak in to my college dark room and develop the pictures that way. 

You might think that these drawbacks would stop the modern photographer from having anything to do with such a camera. On the contrary, most photographer's dreams are to build their digital portfolio's and reputation good enough so that they can go back to shooting film cameras like these. My goal as a photographer is to incorporate this camera into my wedding photography, once I have established consumer confidence in my work.

Here are some examples of photos I have taken with this camera

These pictures go back to the time I was penniless living in northside, Fort Worth. I would take walks into Downtown with my camera and shoot at anything that looked interesting. 

Self portrait at age 19. No digital effects were used. Taken on
the bulb setting on my camera.

My lovely wife, the day I proposed.

The 120 film project is an ongoing project that I hope to build on and one day exhibit in my own personal gallery exhibition. Stay tuned for more pictures with my 50 year old camera.

A day with Johnny and Dorcas

Photography tips with Johnny and Dorcas

It's all about the details! Brides love the details that go into making their special day.
I found this shoe shot to be one of my more sucessful examples yet.

One of my colleagues recently invited me to do an assist for our mutual friend's wedding. It was a pleasure to take the time to photograph this young couple. Here are a few highlights of the day's activities.

Shooting in a dark reception room will require some creativity and some additional lighting other than your carry on flash. Be prepared to "take out the big guns" with your studio lighting and remote flashes. 2011 Jonathan Guzman

Brides love the details on their wedding dress. Be sure to at least have one picture like this in the album.

Every once in a while it's good to shoot a wedding for fun and let someone else do the worrying. Part of networking as a photographer is learning how to get along with the other kids on the block (fellow photographers) and sometimes doing a good deed is it's own reward. Either way each wedding will add 2 to 3 shots to your growing portfolio. These are the one's I think I will keep.

How to make Beautiful Timed Exposures

The Wonders of Timed Exposures

"Taking pictures at night without flash"

"The Cima Club" Downtown Las Colinas Copyright 2011 Jonathan Guzman

Here's a list of things you will need:

Tripod-Sturdy, Aluminum. Able to withstand a windy day. I use a Bogen Manfrotto 3021 Series

Lightmeter- must be able to meter incident light  (The Sekonic Flashmaster or Gossen Luna Pro are a favorite among photographers, although I find the Sekonic easier to use. 

Camera and Lens- Single Lens Reflex, Twin Reflex, DSLR, or Rangefinder. Must have manual focus capabilities, bulb setting or shutter delay capabilities up to at least 30 seconds.

Shutter Release Cable- Optional but highly recommended, especially for cameras that do not use vibration reduction for Image Stabilization features (such as film).

What to do-

1.Set your ISO to where you will have the finest grain possible. (For film users, find a film with low ISO). Preferably 100 to 200 ISO would be recommended.

2.Place the camera on the tripod securely. Connect the shutter release cable if you have one for your camera. For film users, this is a must.

3.Meter the incident light that is coming from the subject. You do this by pointing the light meter towards your subject, with the head facing your subject. Incident right refers to light coming from a specific direction, ambient light is light coming from all directions. There are normally two different light meter heads on the light meter to measure each one.

4. Plug or dial in the light information into your camera. (Example: the light meter says to shoot at 2.8 for 30 seconds. Therefore, my lens aperture will be 2.8 and I will keep the shutter open for 30 seconds either with the bulb setting or shutter delay.

5. Focus in your subject. If your subject is a landscape, just set the lens manually to the figure 8 symbol on your camera. If it is up close, you will have to manually focus it in the dark, preferably with the help of an assistant to flash a light source on it, so that it will be in focus. Auto focus will not work properly and has a high failure rate in this kind of photography.

6. Snap a picture, then wait, then release the shutter release cable (if applicable).

The end results will look like the pictures below:

Texas State Fair Ride. 2011 Jonathan Guzman

Downtown Fort Worth. 2011 Jonathan Guzman

Who said there weren't any cowboys in Texas? Normally I don't use this photo as an example, but here we have an example of a one second exposure with the flash firing. Notice that all the background colors are there, as well as the "ghost" of movement in the image. Its always good to show the exception to the rule.

Following these guidelines and making them your own will result in more beautiful and interesting pictures at night or in low light settings. Please feel free to comment your questions and I will be glad to answer them.