April Update: New Videos and Cycling Tips

Nutrition tips, cycling tips and how to set goals for cycling.

With my busy schedule, I have not had the opportunity to sit down and compose a thought on this blog page until today, so I apologize to my readers for leaving you hanging. With the Collin Classic coming up in June as well as Hotter N' Hell in August, I have been using the little time I have to exercise and do some actual riding. However, I have posted some new videos on my YouTube channel for my subscribers to enjoy. The following videos go into some depth regarding nutritional advice, tips for more efficient climbing and my views on Crits and Bicycle Rallies. Check out my channel and subscribe for more videos to come.

This year so far has gotten off to a great start. I know what I have to do to get in shape for the events that I am going to be riding this year. Some of the gains from last year's 18 pound weight loss have carried over to this year and I am starting the season about 7 to 8 pounds lighter than I did last year. It won't take long to achieve and exceed the form I had last year if all goes according to plan. I have a new goal for 2015; setting a sub 6 hour time for a hundred mile cycling event. More specifically, finishing the Hotter N' Hell in less than 6 hours and maybe even going for a 5 hour time limit. This will require training hard and some new equipment with the latest technology to get me there. "La Poderosa", or my beloved Woodrup steel bike featured in the video above, has officially retired from racing and will be relegated to the Sunday morning group bike ride. It served me well in last year's event, but the marginal losses in shifting with downtube shifters and lack of proper cadence because of cranking big gears took their toll and contributed to the time deficit I had. I was also wearing about 15 pounds of gear on my Camelback and stopped at one too many rest stops while I waited for others who were riding with me. All that resulted in a finishing time of 7:45, still not a bad time, all things considered. This year I'll be signing up not as a first-time newbie tourist, but rather as a seasoned veteran rider that will be "in it to win it" figuratively speaking. My goal is to ride well at these events but also get the attention of some of the local teams in the area. I want to be able to keep up with the best riders around the area where I live and maybe that will open up an opportunity to do something else with this passion that I enjoy. 

Right now I have Motobecane Super Strada on order from Bikes Direct that I will be doing a future review on. It departs from the vintage steel bikes that I love to ride but comes fully loaded with the latest tech such as an external bottom bracket and a Shimano Ultegra 22 speed groupset. The Frame is still made out of an alloy, however it's an aluminum frame with a carbon fiber fork. At 19.5 pounds, it will be about 4 to 5 pounds lighter than the Woodrup when it's all said and done. Spec for spec it can be compared to a Cannondale Caad 8 in performance, but with a nicer groupset. This year my goal is light, fast and efficient, and this bike seems to have all three. It's not a flashy bike but it will soon be the workhorse of my stable.

Another goal that I have is to keep up with one of my childhood friends who will soon be visiting me. He was a beast on the bike when I was 15 and today he is a semi-pro level mountain biker. I'm trying to fit at least one mountain bike ride a week to be prepared to ride with him by the time he visits me. Last year I was all about road cycling for most of the year, this year I will be mixing it up on both the trail and on the road. 

Setting goals every year is important for anyone wishing to maintain a physically active lifestyle. As an adult with a family in tow, I know firsthand how easy it can be to be lured into the complacent mindset of "I'm too old" or "too busy" to be doing this. We may have friends who were once physically active and have allowed themselves to drift into that way of thinking. Setting goals allows us to keep our head above the water in this sense. It allows us to get rid of distractions or excess baggage in our lives or at least know how to deal with the baggage better. It promotes a positive mindset because we always have something to look forward to as we strive to stay busy. It keeps kids (and adults) out of trouble and keeps their minds out of the gutter. It keeps us disciplined from eating in a way that will mess up our progress. Some people keep a journal of their goals. I used to be one of those people and that is a great practice to have. Setting goals down on paper (or in this case, my blog) commits the mind into action and is a great way to see how far we've come along after a certain period of time.

To those who have a hard time committing to their health goals, all I have to say is "don't be that guy (or gal)". At the end of the day, no one likes a victim and no one wants to hear sob stories about someone who would of but could not get in shape. Some people have all the emotional support, coaching and equipment or accessibility to it to get themselves in shape, however they lack the desire. Desire is not something you can buy on a carbon fiber bling bike. It is not something that someone else can have for you. Desire comes from within. It is a powerful force that drives people to change and to overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles. It's willing to put in the hard work and the self discipline knowing that their is no easy path to success. It's watching the pounds slowly inch away on the scale instead of becoming bulimic and expecting an overnight miracle. 

Just remember, if we push hard enough, something is likely to stick. We may lose progress in our fitness from year to year, but eventually good habits will catch up to us as long as we stay consistent. Some people have to go at it alone, because neither their peers nor family members care much for what they are doing. That's okay, the key is to be a positive influence on others, even if that means being left out or skipping the dinner plans for that evening. That might seem inhospitable or unsocial at first glance, but they will eventually get the point as to why you are doing it. Once others see our gains they will want to follow. We must also realize that all people are skeptical by nature and reluctant to embrace new ideas. When people see our results, they will want in on our little secret and they too will follow us eventually. Sometimes WE have to create a following, lead by example and grow the interest in both cycling and healthy living in our area or surroundings. I definitely speak from experience on this matter, so feel free to quote me as the source. 

That's all the updates I have for now, stay tuned and subscribe to my blog and YouTube channel for more informative posts from A Bicycle's Point Of View.

How to Straighten A Bicycle Wheel: Youtube tutorial

Things to check over on your bike before a long ride: See Video

Pre-ride Bike Check: Things to look over before a long ride.

Bicycle Commuting 101

Here's a short video from my video series that teaches the basics of bicycle commuting and some of the gear you may want to use while commuting. I'll keep cranking out the videos. Thanks for watching!

New Video Blog Series Coming Soon!

That's right guys! I'm going to start up a video channel on Youtube to share some of my bicycle repair knowledge and feature some of the subjects that I have discussed on this blog. Some of you may already be familiar with my other channel, Bicycle Adventures, where I have featured videos of myself riding on my bike. Well, the GoPro has broken, and I still wanted to make some cool videos to share on my blog. Subscribe to my new channel, Johnny Guzman, which is the same as my Google+ account. Stay tuned!

The Humble Schwinn Le Tour

The Schwinn Le Tour: The Original Touring Bike

Touring bicycles have been around long before the Schwinn Le Tour. The name "Le Tour" is a dead giveaway that this bike was inspired by it's predecessors from across the pond.  This bike however, was the first mass produced touring bicycle to enter the U.S market by a U.S owned company.

According to history, the mid 1970's oil crisis and a national interest in all things European at the time brought about the bike boom and most notably, the "touring" bicycle or ten speed as it was once called. Before then bicycles in the United States mainly consisted of cruiser-style single speed bikes with balloon tires, also known as paper boy bikes. These more common bicycles featured tanks, horns, fenders and many of them weighed in excess of fifty pounds. The concept of lightweight racing bicycles was a foreign one to most people at the time. This perception changed during the 70's, when a fuel shortage, a new environmentally conscious generation and an unpopular war paved the way for a bicycle revolution. Belgium and the Netherlands rolled with the movement and are now the most bicycle friendly countries in the world. The momentum in the U.S ended abruptly around the late 80's when the economy improved and technology rapidly advanced. From the 80's onward, bicycles have turned from a practical means of transportation to a form of exercise and recreation. Out of that bike boom era there arose a people's champion, a working man's fare, the Model T of touring bikes and a well made product forged in a Chicago factory. The humble but reliable Schwinn Le Tour.

Over the years I have owned several Schwinn Le Tours. The yellow Schwinn featured in the title heading of this bike blog was my first restoration. It has now left my possession as I have given it to my mom, who rides it regularly. Unlike their French counterparts at the time, these bicycles were all steel with metal shifters and derailleurs, making them reliable and durable. The strong metal used for the frames could take a sustained load without making the bicycle ride slower. The early Le Tours had almost all factory made components with all parts stamped "Schwinn Approved". Finding the date on an early Schwinn is as easy as looking at the head badge and hubs of the wheels.


The following two bikes are examples of an early Schwinn Le Tour model and one of the last Schwinn Le Tours that came out of the Chicago factory. Both have features of what was popular for bicycles at the time of their production. With a stronger focus on touring, comfort and practicality, the 1980 Schwinn Le Tour on the right was equipped with stem mounted shifters, steel rims, ergonomic handlebars with shallow drops and center pull brakes. The late 80's Schwinn on the left was made much more sportier, reflecting the shift from practical use to recreative use. The 1988 Schwinn features downtube shifters, side pull caliper brakes and alloy rims. Like the earlier model it came with a strong steel frame and eyelets for mounting racks on, heralding back to it's original purpose of touring. Both bikes can be equipped as touring bikes and in this regard no one bike is superior than the other. 

A 1980's Schwinn Logo

A 1980 Schwinn Le Tour with a logo design reminiscent of earlier models.

By the late 80's lighter steel such as true temper was being used for the Schwinn Le Tour

1020 Tubing is not light by modern day standards, however the bicycle rides like a lightweight bike due to it's road dampening qualities.

Early Schwinns featured stem mounted shifters, steel rims, "suicide" brake levers and lots of chrome

Although the later Schwinn model was designed to be faster than the earlier version, the early Schwinn can be a serious contender with alloy rims and some minor upgrades. As shown in this video, this bike is no wimp when it comes to speed. The video shows me whipping past carbon fiber roadies in their $3000 Wiliers and triathlon machines on my 79' yellow Schwinn.

These bikes can be found all day long on the online classifieds, at a good price too if someone is a shrewd buyer. The 1980 Schwinn cost me $40 and zero dollars in investment to get it in it's current condition. I bought the 88' Schwinn to help out a friend and it cost me twice as much.  These bikes can and do usually bring anywhere from $150 to $300 at resale. I personally have a hard time letting go of Schwinn Le Tours. They are such well built bikes and such a bargain for the money that I will usually hold onto them while usually getting rid of my more expensive bicycles. Having restored one from the ground up, I know firsthand the quality of their build and what this bicycle is capable of. For some reason unknown to me, these bicycles are usually passed up by collectors while inferior models like the Varsity and Stingray get all the attention. The Stingrays, Lemon Peelers and Fastbacks which sell in the thousands of dollars can barely be ridden by grown men while a good Schwinn Le Tour that is capable of beating the socks off of a modern day road bike doesn't even get an offer over $100 most of the time. 

One day when the Puerto Rican Schwinn club switches from vintage cruisers to vintage road bikes (I'm Puerto Rican, I can say that...) or when hipsters start to covet Schwinn bikes for their fixed gear fallacies, the collector's value on a Schwinn Le Tour will probably rise. When it does, just remember that I was riding Schwinn Le Tours before it was cool, before hipsters discovered it and before having knowledge of a Puerto Rican Schwinn club, of which I am probably now regarded as an honorary member. Even though my stable of bikes boasts the best of French, Italian and British imported vintage steel, I will always remember my roots and the bike that got me into restoring bikes in the first place. I can always make room for a humble Schwinn Le Tour.

How To Make It In Fort Worth

Ft.Worth, the "other" city across Dallas-and what you need to do to live there.

Fort Worth really is a beautiful city. It's not a fake kind of beauty that you can guise behind a fancy bridge with white arches or a pretty city skyline. It has never been a problem for me to walk the streets of Fort Worth at night. I know that I am safe and I feel safe as well. Fort Worth has an impressive arts district, parks, museums and miles of bike trails. In short, Fort Worth gets me, and then again it doesn't. Once a resident among it's city limits, I had to abandon this city 7 years ago to get a job, find a wife, and ultimately move forward in life which I wasn't able to do in Fort Worth, as hard as I tried.

I must have handed out about 100 or more resumes in my early 20's. I was an educated, energetic and hard working young man ready to do whatever anyone asked of me (I still am, by the way ;) ). I don't know why so many companies in Fort Worth turned me down. I still believe that there is an unspoken social (maybe even ethnic) bias in Fort Worth that makes it's way into the workforce. There was no reason for employers not to give me a chance. Retrospectively, I knew others who were able to find success and were able to stay within the confines of Fort Worth's city limits. Here's how they did it, and how you too might make it in Fort Worth.

Go To School

This isn't a guarantee for employment, but having a college degree will improve your chances at finding a job that can pay the bills there. Look for opportunities in heath care, paralegal assistance, information technology, graphic design and computer aided drafting. Baylor is a major employer of many health care professionals in Fort Worth, and health care jobs are always in demand. To live comfortably, try to acquire at least an associates level degree if considering making the move to Fort. Worth.

Be Your Own Boss

Tradesmen seem to have it pretty good in Fort Worth from what I have personally witnessed. Some successful friends of mine were able to make ends meet by becoming landscapers, carpenters, carpet cleaners and installers, door installers, and home re modelers. There is no shame in hard work, if you want to live in Fort Worth, that is.

Work at the Airport

If you don't have an two year college education, and no trade skills to speak of, the next step to making it in Fort Worth is to work at the airports nearby. Alliance airport is home to two major courier companies and DFW airport has several air freight and logistics warehouses. Keep in mind that working at an airport is hard work, requires working crazy shifts and it does not pay a lot of money. Jobs at the airport start around nine dollars an hour, and can pay up to fifteen in some companies. Paired with a second job or someone else splitting the bills, it might be possible to get by on an airport salary. I wouldn't do it long term, especially with a family in tow.

Work Outside of Fort Worth

Dallas has more work opportunities and more industries to choose from. Even the retail jobs pay better in Dallas. A fry cook at In And Out Burger starts making $10.50 an hour, which is unheard of in Fort Worth last I checked. I work at a bike shop and it's enough to supplement our family income for the time being. Companies are fair about the hiring process, and will at least call you in for an interview, even if your skill sets aren't top notch. My first legitimate job in Dallas was in Technical Support, where I learned on the job many of the computer and software skills I have today. I was also  given the opportunity to work in the health care field for two years as a monitor technician. 

Living in Fort Worth with a job in Dallas will be a challenge. The commute from city to city is about an hour each way. Traffic construction between cities is the worst I have seen in over 20 years of living in this area. Because of the nightmare traffic, many people who live in Fort Worth will eventually move to Dallas to save on gas and to reduce their stress levels. With a comparable cost of living between the two cities, it's no surprise that Dallas continues to keep getting transplants from Fort. Worth, myself included.

In conclusion, I miss the idea of Fort Worth. I miss being close to a city where I didn't have to leave town to get to where I wanted to go. I miss having everything I enjoy in one zip code. I miss a being in a city that is walkable at any hour of the day. Unfortunately, through no fault of my own, Fort Worth lost this citizen who did everything possible to make an honest living within it's boarders. No matter what I did to stay, it just wasn't good enough. I wasn't part of the social clique that makes up the Fort Worth elite. In Dallas, however, I found the value I knew I always had, as an individual and as a contributor to the community. That doesn't mean that it is impossible to live in Fort Worth, and it doesn't mean that I might not one day try to live there again, however things have to change. Fort Worth needs to find a way to hold on to the companies headquartered there. They also need to welcome more entrepreneurs and small businesses into their downtown area. Allowing artisans and musicians to perform in the streets on saturday nights was generating a lot of business, they need to start doing that again. With more economic diversity and transparent hiring practices, Fort Worth can be everything that Dallas is not. However, there needs to be a way to put food on the table that is accessible to everyone. Without that, Fort Worth will never outgrow or outclass Dallas, and will continue struggling economically and keep losing more residents each year. Betsy Price, if you're reading this, I hope you're taking notes.

What to do about those pesky headbadges?

Advice for reinstalling riveted headbadges

The picture above says it all. Use crazy glue or the generic equivalent. Riveted headbadges, once removed, can be impossible to find screws or rivets for. That doesn't mean that they are junk by any means. There are very beautiful and valuable headbadges that once reattached to the bike can also add more value to that bicycle. Take for instance that red and silver Peugeot headbadge (top left of picture). That badge is so pretty you can put a wire through it on one side and sell it as an earring. But since I'm not in the jewelery business, I'll just stick that piece of bling back on the bicycle where it belongs.

Removing these headbadges requires the use of tiny drill bits, a slow drill setting, and a steady hand. As you drill the hole out of the rivet, use slightly larger bits until the rivet pops off. If there are any metal shavings left on the frame holes, these can come off with a Flathead screwdriver. Removing the headbadge is easy, the harder part is putting it back on.

The easiest and least headache inducing solution is using crazy glue. This is the one that I recommend, the solution over all others. Simply apply a thin layer of crazy glue on the backside of the headbadge. Line the holes on the headbadge to the holes on the frame, then press down hard and hold the badge in place for a few minutes. Make sure to stick the headbadge on a clean surface, hopefully a frame that has been powder coated. After that, you're done. The badge should stay one the frame for the remainder of it's life (or until you decide to pry it off with a crowbar, whichever one comes first).

There are other ways you can go about reinstalling a riveted headbadge if you are one of those anal-retentive types. Schwinn headbadges use 2mm x 4mm sheet metal screws. Double sided tape is another alternative I have heard even restoration services will use on their headbadges. And if you are one of those "purest" bicycle restorers, you could buy a rivet gun and even some 2mm rivets online. Crazy glue works just as well if not better than the aforementioned alternatives.

So there it is, how to remove and reinstall riveted headbadges. Here is just another tool to add to your arsenal of knowledge. Instead of selling those beauties on eBay or wearing them as earrings, you now can use them for what they were originally intended for. Bicycle emblems. Subscribe and stay tuned for more how to articles and restoration tips. Feel free to leave your questions and I will do my best to answer them.

Randonneuring- The revival of cyclo-touring part 3: The finished product.

Part 3 of my Randonneuring article and the results of my 10 speed conversion.

Let me start out by showing some "before" pictures of my 10 speed Schwinn before the conversion.

Now the converted Schwinn to Randonneuring bicycle,

The finished product.

25.4mm diameter suspension seatpost with Brooks-style saddle.

Swapped the 5 speed freewheel for a 7 speed mega chainring freewheel. Fitted a Shimano Tourney long cage derailleur to take the largest cog.

Going against conventional wisdom, I installed a set of Shimano Tourney thumb shifters on the top of the drop bars. You will need a longer bolt to fit these shifters than the ones supplied. I took some bolts of a department store bike brake levers to make it work.

Its amazing the weight savings I have had just by replacing the old freewheel, shifters and derailleur from the bike. Having a more accurate shift, taller stem and wider handlebars has improved the maneuverability of the bike. The better gear ratio also allows me to pedal alot faster and smoother. I took it for a test ride today and man was it fun. It's great for adventuring through the backroads, park trails or just riding with the family.

Question remains, will this bike hold up to singletrack? Probably not. It will at least be able to take on some fire roads and gravel or flat dirt roads. The top tube is too long to get proper lift and the bottom bracket too low to the ground for hopping logs and other obstacles. That doesn't mean I am discouraging anyone to try it out for themselves. As for me I have invested too much in the bike already (I am a cheapskate about upgrading bikes than most other enthusiasts) to try riding cross country on this bike.  What I will say is I have rigged up a bike that is quite capable of doing what I designed it for; Randonneuring.

Too many kids today (I mean twenty somethings like myself or younger) have a beef with gears. Many consider gears on a bike to be an accessory only desirable to old people.  The kids who grew up riding single speed BMX bikes transitioned to single speed road bikes or "fixies". While there is nothing wrong with that, having grown up riding mountain bikes my views differ. Its all about the gears. The more gear range on my bike, the better. More gears mean more utility. If I wanted to ride my bike over 'em mountains, I sure can, as long as there is a road going up there somewhere. Not something I would advise on a single speed/fixed gear bike. It is not feasable or practical to ride a bike loaded with about 80 pounds of equipment, say, in a place like the Rockies in Colorado, single speed. Maybe with an internal gear hub in the back but not with a single speed cog or freewheel. That's why I recommend gearing out your old ride instead of stripping it to the frame and the wheels. You'll have alot more fun riding it and you'll be able to ride a wide variety of terrain without having to get off the saddle and walking. I hope this article served it's purpose to inform the reader the potential of their garage sale 10 speeds. Give it a try, let me know how it goes. 

Randonneuring- The revival of cyclo-touring. Part 2-Progress and observations

Part 2 of my Randonneuring bicycle build.

I didn't want to leave any of my diehard followers in suspense about the progress I have made with my ten speed to rando-touring machine build. Here are a few observations that I have made in the process.

I had purchased a 9 speed freewheel to replace the original 5 speed paperweight on the bicycle. I ended up having to go with a 7 speed freewheel with a granny gear mega chainring for the hills. The rear triangle and the axle length of my hub would not take the extra two gears needed for the 9 speed conversion. So for anyone considering buying the Sunrace 9 speed freewheel, this will not work on an old bike like this, even with a larger axle and the rear triangle cold set. Even at the 7 speed level, I had to add a 2mm spacer to the axle to prevent the chain from hitting the frame on the smallest cog. Nine speed freewheels are designed for modern mountain bike frames that accommodate a rear axle of at least 135mm. The same also goes for the riser stem that I originally purchased to replace the short racing stem on the bike. Schwinns from the 70's will not accept a standard 1" quill stem for a threaded headset. The actual size of the stem is .833, or 21.15mm in tube diameter, as opposed to the standard diameter of 22.2mm. Fortunately for me, a local bike shop happened to carry both the stem and the freewheel that I needed for this conversion. 

I had to replace the chrome Shimano 400 rear derailleur with a more modern long-cage derailleur to accomodate the mega range gearing on the bike. I opted with the Shimano Tourney derailleur since it is what is most commonly used on mega range, freewheel setups. To my surprise the derailleur looks quite durable. There are not as many plastic parts as advertised on the reviews, and I believe it can take a beating through the gravel as long as the bicycle does not fall on top of it.  It already came with the claw-style dropout hanger, so there was no need to get a hanger converter for it. It was a quick swap, and the bolt that holds it to the frame was coated in Locktite which gives me confidence about it's sturdiness. 

I also replaced the 25.4mm diameter, crotch killing steel seat post with the same diameter suspension seat post. When working with seat post diameters this small (may I remind the reader that 25.4mm is now the norm for most BMX seat posts) suspension seat posts tend to have their mechanical flaws. One such flaw is lateral looseness on the saddle, or commonly referred to as "the wobble". Some suspension posts wobble and some don't. It is a defect that is so common that I have decided to keep my somewhat wobbly seat post. In a non racing, off roading kind of situation, a slightly wobbly seat will not matter as you ride along a bumpy and unpaved trail. If it does give me any problems in the long run I can just replace it with a non suspended post with an integrated seat clamp and spring loaded saddle. But for the moment I will stick with my current setup.

I have also swapped out my Serfas Secca tires for a pair of good looking Panaracer Paselas. I have yet to test their durability, and I do not know if this is a downgrade from the kevlar lined, puncture resistant Seccas. What I do know is that these tires look fatter and slightly more knobbier than the street slicks I had on previously. The Serfas tires now hang in the corner of my garage as a backup set or for if or when I decide to go fast on this bike again. If punctures become a problem in the future I'll throw some tire liner to give a little added protection to my tubes. Since there are no goat heads or similar thorns in the area of Texas where I live, I don't see punctures as being an issue. I keep a high PSI on my tires and hardly get pinch flats or flats from riding over glass. I ride through country roads often, and I can't remember the last time I had a flat. 

I replaced the Schwinn Sakae Road Champion handlebars for a set of slightly wider Nitto Olympiade handlebars that I had lying around. With the added height of the stem and added width of the handlebars, the bike is taking on a more comfortable and stable geometry. 

I am still waiting on my Shimano Tourney thumb shifters to complete my touring ride and these should be arriving in the mail shortly. I'm sorry I have yet to post pictures of my build progress, but I think I'm going to have to post pictures of the finished product since I am so close to finishing. Stay tuned for article 3 of my Randonneuring ride- the finished product. I will also try to post youtube video of riding footage and how to's for anyone interested.