Why Restore an Old Bicycle?

 Will restoring an old bicycle add value to it?

I have been getting feedback on my blog from several viewers. One such viewer asked me the above question which makes for an interesting discussion topic. The reader might ask, "can something that's been sitting in my barn or on my porch for 30 years still be valuable?".  All you have to do is watch the show American Pickers, and the question will answer itself.

The truth is, there is always a market for classic or vintage items. Whether is for collectors or sentimental value, restoring old items to like new conditions is an investment that will yield returns when it's time to sell. Most vintage bicycles become conversation pieces or end up in Jay Leno's garage. But there are some people who restore bicycles just because they don't want to buy anything new. They might be able to get the latest carbon fiber road bike, but instead recognize the quality of a classic bicycle. The saying "they don't make them like they used to" can be justly applied when it comes to bicycles. Now I am not saying that anything new is not worth buying. Nowadays there are great performance designed bicycles that may offer more utility or comfort than bicycles of the past. The difference between a new and old bicycle is the difference between a Honda Element and a 57' Corvette. Style over utility. Feel over performance. The fact that anything over 30 years is still around is testament to the quality of it's design. 

On a recent visit to a well known bike shop in Dallas, I was shopping around for some Schwinn Bicycle grips and checked in to see what they had. When asking one of the techs if they had any Schwinn parts, the tech replied that Schwinns were low quality bicycles only sold at Wal-Mart.  Knowing better than the tech and having worked at several bike shops, I smiled, biting my lip and nodding my head, refraining from a all out lashing of his ignorance and lack of persona. But then again, this was the RBM in Dallas, surrounded by the Highland Park and Lakewood communities, where people usually ride their $5,000 road bikes around a nine mile circuit known as White Rock Lake. In fact, upon closer observation, the majority of their bicycles were worth over a thousand dollars, on average. I'm not trying to defame this bike shop or take any business away from them, I'm just relating what happened.  Later on another tech was a little more helpful in at least pointing  the way to other sources where I could find out more on vintage Schwinns.  

This lack or alleged lack of knowledge about old bicycles is fairly common in the modern bicycle shop environment. One reason is that reps at the shop are usually commissioned salesman that want you to buy something new. Bike shops have to buy new bicycles in bulk quantity at a discounted rate and pay the manufacturer back within a reasonable amount of time, otherwise the are responsable for the full MSRP on all the bicycles purchased. That's why I like the Mom and Pop bike shops better. They don't carry a lot of new inventory, their overhead is lower, the pressure to sell is less and they tend to have more knowledgeable staff.

Another reason for this reaction is the bike boom of 2008. More people who did not know about bicycles got into cycling and many people lost their jobs and found work at the bike shops. So many reps only know about the products they sell, and tend to demean anything that is foreign to them, because they haven't heard about it.

The reader might ask themselves "Is an old classic worth as much as a new bicycle from a bike shop?" A rep at a large chain bike shop will probably say no. But I want to answer that question to the contrary. 

I am currently doing a restoration of a 1980 Schwinn Cruiser 5. I have seen these same bicycles sell on eBay from $600 to 1000 dollars. Granted, this bicycle might not be worth as much as a Specialized Tarmac, but even 600 dollars isn't chump change.  That's why the rewards are worth the investment.

Just like my current restoration project, there are many classic bicycles, many in the Schwinn family, that are worth a lot of money in like new or restored condition. Collectors, enthusiasts, or just practically minded people are willing to spend the cash to buy them, even in a down sloping economy. From a business standpoint or simply for personal enjoyment, restoring an old bicycle makes sense. You take something you already have and add value and utility to it. Its taking something that currently does not exist on the market, making it unique and desirable to others. No one turns heads driving a Honda Element, but a 57' Corvette? Now you get the picture.

How to restore your bicycle- Part 2 Rust Removal, before and after.

How to restore your old bicycle part 2

Rust bath results

I wanted to give an update on the parts restoration process before getting the bicycle frame back from powder coating. In my last article one of my readers brought up a good point. Unless you are trying to remove rust from chromed plated bicycle parts, I would not recommend using oxalic acid on any aluminum or nickel plated parts. The best solution for these kind of parts is to use a  mineral solvent like Simple Green and to continuously scrub the parts in the solution using a steel wool sponge or wire brush. Newer bicycles from at least the last two decades will very seldom have any chrome plated parts on them.

As far as removing rust from chrome plated parts, I have yet to find a more effective solution than oxalic acid. In my last article I posted the before pictures of the parts before being treated in the oxalic acid bath. Here's an update on how these parts look now.

After 48 hours, the water will have a yellowish tint to it, the acid is doing it's job

Parts after the first phase of the oxalic acid bath.

I Jerry-rigged this "ghetto bath" out of a recycling bin that leaked so I had to wrap plastic around it. Will make it better next time

After the first oxalic bath, I made another larger bath out of a recycling bin. I know, I know, Greenpeace would hang me by my toes if they saw this. In my defense it no longer leaks. Being that I am also pro-environment I always take extra precaution when handling chemicals like this, reader rest assured. 

I let the parts from the first bath sit in the second bath for about 10 hours and added more rusty parts into the soup. Here is how the initial parts turned out after being placed in this bath,

The ugly duckling becoming a swan- Before and after oxalic acid bath.

Before and after oxalic acid bath.

Even after a 3 day bath, sometimes the rust may leave small pits where it ate through the chrome finish. Oxalic acid can really bring back chrome polished metal, but it does not work miracles. Here is an example of small pitting that may occur when a metal has been long exposed to rusting. From a distance pitting may not be noticeable. I had to make this picture below with my macro-lens setting.

Pitting may occur when metal has been exposed to rust for a long time.

My next article will feature how this bike starts to come together. Stay tuned as I give more tips on parts installation techniques and final touches on this bike.

How to Restore a bicycle- Part 1-Dissassembly and rust removal

How to Restore a Bicycle-

Getting off that rust is a must!

It's been one week since my last blog post, but it already feels like forever. I want to apologize to my disgruntled fans for having kept them waiting on my every word for the very next thing I  have to say. In my defense, I've been busy. With what, you might ask? With my next project, restoring a blue 5 speed Schwinn Cruiser. It lived it's life on the ocean and became a beach bum. Now it bares the consequences of it's laid back lifestyle with a collection of rust on it's frame and parts. In fact, this bike is so rusty that I think I'll just refer to it as "Rusty".

Bicycle newbies, mechanics and restorers need to pay close attention to this article if you are trying to revive a Rusty of your own. This article is going to cover the steps I take to get rust off a bicycle and also the tools and chemicals I use for the job.

Things you'll need for this job:

- A socket wrench set with metric and standard sizes

- A bicycle repair stand

- A large universal wrench, the kind you would club somebody trying to rob you with

- Needle nose pliers

- A cable cutter, preferably the one Park Tool makes

- A pedal wrench. Mine is a chain whip and pedal wrench combo, found at your local bike shop.

- A few buckets

- Savogran Wood Bleach or any wood brightener that contains oxalic acid

- Rubber gloves, goggles and a respirator mask if the fumes are too intense.

- Baking soda

- A ventilated area or a space in your backyard where the neighbors won't mind

- Allen wrench set

- WD40, steel wool, and wire brushes

- A Phillips and Flathead screwdriver 

- A clock in the room and a coffee maker, just 'cause.

Okay so each restoration project is different in that the parts of the bicycle are all mounted differently. So instead of going into detail general bicycle diss-assembly, I'm going to talk about the diss-assembly for this bicycle. Here's what the bicycle looked like, after I took off the bolt on wheels.

Ol' Rusty getting stripped down for the rust bath.

This fork has seen better days.

This chainring, believe or not, will shine after the oxalic acid bath.

  
Taking the bike apart is the easiest part depending on how you look at it. Where there's a bolt, use a socket wrench, a screw, a screw driver. But it is also very labor intensive. Turning parts that have don't want to be turned because of rust can be a real challenge. My secret weapons for stubborn parts are my bicycle repair stand and WD40. Whenever possible, use the bicycle repair stand to your advantage. Even if its to remove a pedal from a crank arm, you can set the crank arm in the vice and bear down on the bolt of the pedal to screw it freely off. This will save you from having to bend over constantly and in the long run will save your back. 

I will, against all bike snobbery wisdom, use WD40. I don't rely on it exclusively, but to get parts to move on old bicycles, its a must to have around. This single piece crank set shown on the picture took about half an hour to remove. The reverse threaded side was stuck onto the frame by rust. With some WD40 I was able to work at it little by little until the crown started turning. (FYI: the non-drive side on these crank arms is always the reverse threaded side. Always remove the bolts and crown on this side of the bike, then slide the crank arm out the opposite end through the bottom bracket.)

The best way to learn how to put the bike back together is by making a mental note of  what you remove. "Does that washer come before, or after the ball bearings?" for example. Save every little part taken off because you never know how important that part may be or how difficult it might be to replace.

After I remove all the main parts such as the wheels, crank arms, fork and seatpost, now I'm ready to tackle the small stuff. I take a pair of cable cutters and cut the exposed cable on both ends of the brakes and the shifter and derailleur. I leave the housing intact because I will need to know how much housing to buy in the future. 

Finally with all parts taken off, the frame is ready to be sent for sandblasting and powder coating. This is an acceptable strip down of the frame at this point of the restoration.

Once the frame has been stripped down, a painter should have no problem removing the remaining rust  and repainting the surface.

I'm not going to lie and say that I know how to do powder coating, because that would be over promising any potential clients of mine. I do know where to get it done at a reasonable cost, and paint jobs like these aren't exorbitantly priced luxuries. The paint job is, however, a major expense in the restoration process. Be ready to shell out at least a Benjamin to get a frame like this painted to match. I will post pictures of the results of the powder coating on my next article.

Now that all the parts have been removed, it's time to put that rusty pile in a chemical bath. The chemical you will need is called oxalic acid. It is a compound mostly used to bleach wood decking. You can buy it at some hardware stores in its concentrated, or crystallized form. They also carry a diluted liquid version which takes longer to remove the rust. At first I went to my nearest Lowe's and bought a gallon of Cabot Wood Brightener which contained oxalic acid. I set the rusty parts in a bucket and filled it with water. Then I started adding a few ounces of the wood brightener. After leaving it overnight, the parts looked almost the same, so I added more copious amounts of the stuff into the bucket. At the and of the day I saw the water turning yellow which is a sign that the oxalic acid is doing it's job. I will leave it again overnight and see the results tomorrow. 

If you are using Savogran Wood Bleach oxalic acid, two tablespoons should be enough to tackle a batch like the one below. This acid needs to dissolve in hot water when it is first used.

My first 48 hour Oxalic Acid bath using liquid wood bleach.

Reader be advised, when using oxalic acid, please take the necessary safety precautions. This acid is a poison. It should not be left in a garage or an area with no ventilation. When cleaning parts off with this acid use rubber gloves. To dispose of the acid you will first have to neutralize it using baking soda. Pour small amounts of baking soda at a time until the water sizzles out, then you know the bath has been neutralized. After the acid has been neutralized, it can be poured down the drain. Also, when working in close proximity to the acid, use a respirator mask. Exposure to this acid has been linked to kidney failure and joint problems. Again, take the proper precautions. 

In my next article I will feature the after photos of the acid bath, the finished powder coat and decals on the frame, and a few more other steps in the restoration process. Stay tuned for part 2 and possibly a part 3 on how to restore your bicycle.

Coming Soon: A bicycle's point of view

The Photographer's and Cyclist's corner to become

A Bicycle's point of view

To my loyal fans (counting all four registered at the moment) I would like to extend my appreciation for your support, views and patronage to my current blog via clicking the Google ads which I get paid for. Currently, my blog has experienced a decline in viewership, so much so that I have decided to rethink my strategy about what I write and how I advertise it.

I have been focusing on general purpose topics regarding cycling and photography. These are two subjects dear to my heart  that interrelate to each other, given the sense of tranquility both offer to me personally.  Although I really enjoy photography as a hobby and have even made clients and small profits along the way with it, I take more out of writing subjects that relate to the cycling world and it's immediate and long term impact on society. Therefore, I have renamed my current blog "A bicycle's point of view" literally meaning the posts from here on out will come from the point of view of my bicycle. I will load my camera and give the reader the best interpretation of my vantage point from my bicycle rides. Being that it's not always easy to take the time and resources to do this, so my posting might be on a less regular basis. Yet all posts will be original with my own photos added.

I don't think there is enough on the internet about cycle-touring or randonneuring, or mountain trekking on your bike. There is also not enough posting about long distance travel, world travel, riding in the countryside, people using (not collecting) vintage bikes, bike riding in Texas, free training advice and so on and so forth.  I plan to change that and maybe gain some followers along the way. The new blog will also cover my transition from a daily driver to a daily pedaler, as transit centers start to open in my area and the car takes a secondary role in my commuting. 

I am also looking for sponsorship to support and promote cycling on my blog. If you are a bike shop, manufacturer, apparel company or know of someone who is, please send them over my way. I can even feature sponsor's products on my blog, just send me something and I will let everyone know about it. I will add a link to my website promoting any business who would like to sponsor me with their ads. 

The link to my new blog page is www.bicyclepointofview.blogspot.com

Stay tuned and thanks again for subscribing!

Johnny

A day with Johnny and Dorcas

Photography tips with Johnny and Dorcas

It's all about the details! Brides love the details that go into making their special day.
I found this shoe shot to be one of my more sucessful examples yet.

One of my colleagues recently invited me to do an assist for our mutual friend's wedding. It was a pleasure to take the time to photograph this young couple. Here are a few highlights of the day's activities.

Shooting in a dark reception room will require some creativity and some additional lighting other than your carry on flash. Be prepared to "take out the big guns" with your studio lighting and remote flashes. 2011 Jonathan Guzman

Brides love the details on their wedding dress. Be sure to at least have one picture like this in the album.

Every once in a while it's good to shoot a wedding for fun and let someone else do the worrying. Part of networking as a photographer is learning how to get along with the other kids on the block (fellow photographers) and sometimes doing a good deed is it's own reward. Either way each wedding will add 2 to 3 shots to your growing portfolio. These are the one's I think I will keep.